How Do I Know When It’s Time to Clean My Swimming Pool Filter?

Q. How do I know when it’s time to clean my swimming pool filter?

A. When a brand new filter, filter elements, or sand is installed on a pool and the system is first started up, you should take note of the pressure gage at the top of the filter and make note of that number. When the filter pressure rises more than 10 lbs. above that number it is time to backwash or clean your filters. Since the hydraulics of every pool are different, that starting number will be different on every pool.

After you have cleaned or backwashed the filters the pressure gage should read at it’s original starting position. You may find that your filters need to be cleaned as often as once a week, or sometimes as little as once a year, depending on the type of filter, water, climate, etc. The pressure gage should determine the amount of time between cleanings, not the calendar. If you have to clean your filters too often (more than once a week), it’s likely time to replace your filter media entirely. 

Of course our advice is particularly gaged for swimming pool owners along the Wasatch Front in Utah. 

What Do I Do If My Swimming Pool Isn’t Heating?

All of our years of taking care for the backyard (and the occasional front yard) swimming pool and spas of Salt Lake City and all the surrounding Utah areas have taught us a thing or two. Some of our hard-earned knowledge can be found below:

Q. What do I do if my swimming pool isn’t heating?

A. The first thing to check is that the pump is running and is fully primed (meaning water is moving through it). If water is not flowing through the system, the heater won’t turn on.

The second thing to check is your heater’s pilot light, if your heater has a pilot light. To make sure it is lit by take off the front panel of the heater, get down on the floor, and look in the center of the heater where you should see a small, blue flame. If it’s not lit, follow the instructions on the inside of the door to light the pilot light.

The third thing to check is the contents of the traps and baskets. If the traps and baskets are full they can clog the system and prevent enough water flowing through the system.

If none of the above works, you’ll want to make sure filter pressure isn’t reading too high. Filter pressure should not go up more than 10 lbs. from when the clean filters were installed. If the gage reads 10 lbs above it’s “clean pressure” then you need to backwash or clean the filter(s). If none of the above work, call a swimming pool professional- like us- as there could be any number of other issues preventing your pool heater from working.

Swimming Pool Chemicals: Getting to Know Chlorine

In our last post about pool chemicals we talked about how chlorine is the most common pool disinfectant. It’s also a common household product (read: bleach, although it’s more diluted than what you would be adding to your Utah swimming pool). So what should you know about chlorine?

Chlorine is typically prepared in liquid, powder or tablet form (though some professionals use gaseous chlorine), and it can be added to the water anywhere in the cycle. Chlorine comes in different strengths, and all chlorines are definitely not created equal. Pool experts generally recommend adding it just after the filtering process, and specifically after the heater here in Utah (since for the most part, all pools in Utah tend to have heaters, specifically up here along the colder part of the Salt Lake Valley). You don’t want to be flowing highly chlorinated water through the pool equipment, especially your heater. One way some pool owners add chlorine to their pools is through the skimmer boxes, which isn’t very safe because the chlorine tends to be too concentrated in those areas.

One problem with hypochlorous acid is that it’s not particularly stable. It can degrade when exposed to ultraviolet light from the sun, which of course all pools are subject to, and chlorine may combine with other chemicals to form new compounds. Pool chlorine tablets often include a stabilizing agent, such as cyanuric acid, that reacts with the chlorine to form a more stable compound that does not degrade as easily when exposed to ultraviolet light. You should be testing your pool, at least at the beginning of the summer, to make sure your cyanuric acid level is the right level (less than 100 parts per million and greater than 30 parts per a million according to the Health Department).

Even with a stabilizing agent, hypochlorous acid may combine with other chemicals, forming compounds that are not very effective sanitizers. For example, hypochlorous acid may combine with ammonia, found in urine, among other things, to produce various chloramines. Not only are chloramines poor sanitizers, but they can actually irritate the skin and eyes and have an unpleasant odor. The distinctive smell and eye irritation associated with swimming pools are actually due to chloramines, not ordinary hypochlorous acid — a strong smell usually means there is too little free chlorine (hypochlorous acid), rather than too much. To get rid of chloramines, you have to shock treat the pool, which is to say, to add an unusually strong dose of chemicals to clear out organic matter and unhelpful chemical compounds.

Chlorine also affects the overall pH balance of the pool, and also is effected by the overall pH balance of the pool. As overall pH rises, chlorine is slowed down and is slower to kill bacteria.  And as pH lowers beyond 7.5, the chlorine effectiveness speeds up killing bacteria faster, but also becoming unstable where it is “spent” more quickly.

And that, my friends, is how chlorine works in your swimming pool.

*Thanks to HowStuffWorks “Pool Chemicals” for help in writing this article.

Why are Swimming Pool Chemicals Important?

You probably know that a big pool of water will quickly become a cesspool of germs and bacteria if you leave it alone long enough, but why exactly are all those pool chemicals necessary to keep your water nice and blue?

First off, certain pathogens, such as bacteria, thrive in water. If left untreated, a pool filled with untreated water is the perfect place for these microorganisms to move from one person to another. Improperly balanced water can even irritate the eyes of skins of swimmers as well.

Not only can water be dangerous to people, but water with the wrong chemical balance can damage various parts of the pool. If the water pH is too low it can destroy the plaster, heaters, metal ladders, and on older pools it can even destroy your underground plumbing. If your pH levels are too high it can even leave calcium deposits on the tile.

So what’s the most popular pool disinfectant to use? Good ol’ fashioned chlorine in the form of a chemical compound such as calcium hypochlorite (one of many granular solids) or sodium hypochlorite (a liquid). When the compound is added to your pool water, the chlorine reacts with the water to form various chemicals, most notably hypochlorous acid. It’s a big word, but hypochlorous acid kills bacteria and other pathogens by attaching the lipids in the cell walls and destroying the enzymes and structures inside the cell through an oxidation reaction. Alternative sanitizers, such as bromine do basically the same thing with slightly different results.*

More later on chlorine 🙂

*Thanks to HowStuffWorks “Pool Chemicals” for help in writing this article.

Utah Pool Supplies: Chemicals and Products

Do you know how many different types of swimming pool chemicals, supplies, and products are out there? Neither do we, but we do know it’s a pretty big and overwhelming number. There are a lot of brands, types, and options to choose from. How do you know what to use?

Your best bet is to turn to the professionals- you know, like us. Since we spend a lot of time figuring out the best chemicals for your pool or spa, we’ll explain the difference between shock treatments, clarifiers, and cleaners.

Recreation Utah: The Living Planet Aquarium in Sandy, Utah.

We’re really excited to use one of our new Christmas gifts: a gift certificate to The Living Planet Aquarium in Sandy, Utah. Maybe it’s because we’re swimming pool people, but the idea of getting up close and personal with some water-dwelling animals sounds pretty fun.

We haven’t had a chance to go yet, but after reviewing their website (http://www.thelivingplanet.com/) we think we’ll enjoy the visit and might even upgrade to the membership- it definitely seems worth it.

Has anyone visited the Aquarium before? What did you think?

Not All Swimming Pool Chemcials Are Created Equal

Have you ever stumbled across what appears to be a great deal on 3 inch Chlorine Tablets at your local big-box retailer? Were you tempted to buy them?

Shhh, it’s OK if you were, but know that not all swimming pool and spa chemcials are created equal. As a general rule, if it seems to good to be true, it probably is. You need to pay attention to the ingredients and percentages of what you’re buying. So let’s look at our example of 3 inch Chlorine Tablets, make sure they offer the same amount or percent of chlorine that you’re used to getting. It’s like your mom said: you get what you pay for.

If you’re ever in doubt of what you’re about to pay for, give us a call at 801-208-9527 and we’ll let you know, or sign up for our chemical service anywhere along the Wasatch Front of Utah (from Ogden to Provo, including Salt Lake City). We’ll deliver chemcials right to your door, and we’d be more than happy to tell you more about our weekly and bi-weekly regular route maintenance for your Utah swimming pool, spa or hot tub.

Swimming Pool Safety: Diving Boards

We spent some time at our local Utah rec pool here in Midvale recently, and watched something that reminded us that perhaps the general public doesn’t know all it could about diving board safety. We saw a scout leader that was out with his troop do a “suicide dive” off of the diving board, and cracked his head something fierce on the diving board on his way towards the water.

It’s worth remembering that even though a pool may be a public pool, look nice, and be seemingly up to code, it doesn’t necessarily mean that it is. You could be diving off of an improperly installed board, and be putting quite a lot at risk- for all you know you’re about to jump off into seven feet of water. Be careful, be conscious, and make sure that if your pool has a diving board that it has been properly installed for the safety of you and your visiting swimmers.

The artcile below (taken from here) is a good reminder of what all divers should be aware of before they step food on a diving board.

Safe Diving is no “Accident”

 

It’s a startling fact that as many as 1,000 spinal cord injuries occur each year due to shallow water diving. 90 percent of all diving injuries cause a spinal cord injury and result in paralysis, specifically quadriplegia.

Nearly 1,000 spinal cord injuries occur each year in the U.S. when persons, predominantly males aged 15-25 years, dive into swimming pools or natural bodies of water. The vast majority of diving injuries occur in 6 feet of water or less.

“Top 10” tips for diving injury prevention, which can be also found at www.thinkfirst.org and www.spine.org, include:

• ALWAYS know the depth of water before you dive. When in doubt, test the water before diving by wading or walking into the water feet first. Remember “feet first, first time.”
• Don’t dive into shallow, open water. Three out of four diving injuries happen in lakes, rivers, oceans and other natural bodies of water. Be aware that water depths are affected by tides, droughts, floods, etc. These conditions can also mean dangerous underwater debris.
• NEVER swim or dive alone, always do it with a buddy.
• Never dive into an aboveground pool or into the shallow end of a pool. ThinkFirst recommends water be at least 11 feet deep for safe diving from the side of a pool or deck.
• Don’t dive from rooftops, balconies, ledges, fences, retaining walls, ladders, slides or other pool equipment.
• To dive safely, hold your head and arms up and steer with your hands. Keep your arms extended over your head during the dive.
• Don’t dive off the side of a diving board – dive straight ahead and test the diving board for its spring before using.
• Don’t run and dive. Don’t do a back dive.
• NEVER drink and dive. According to ThinkFirst, more than half of all serious diving incidents occur when the diver has been drinking. Diving requires clear thinking to judge distance and depth, monitor speed and direction, and coordinate body movements.
• Always make sure children are supervised by an adult while diving and swimming.

If you suspect that someone has sustained a spinal cord injury from a shallow water dive, contact 911 immediately. Approach the victim carefully. Hold the victim’s head in alignment with his or her back and gently turn them onto their back so they can breathe. If possible, have others assist you. Keep the victim’s head and back stabilized and support them with something sturdy (pool equipment, ring buoy, oar, etc.) Most important, do not move a diving victim from the water until the emergency medical team arrives, as movement can cause further damage to the spinal cord.

Recreation Utah: Gallivan Center

Have you checked out the recently renovated Gallivan Center Ice Rink? It’s located at 36 East 200 South, 84111 in Salt Lake City, Utah. It’s one of the few outdoor skating rinks in Utah, and it has a few fun perks because it’s in the middle of downtown and within walking distance of lot’s of fun places to eat.

It’s also open New Years Eve, so if you’re willing to freeze your buns off, get down to the Gallivan Center and enjoy some hot chocolate and tight skates.

How do you Repair Cracks in In-ground Gunnite Pools in Utah?

Good question, and we’re glad you asked. There are a couple of options.

First of all cracks in in-ground gunnite pools don’t always leak and consequently you don’t always have to fix them. If you see a hairline crack it might not necessarily mean you have to fix them because they might not be leaking or leaking enough to matter.

If you do suspect the crack is leaking try one of these options:

1. Inject dye next to the crack and watch and see if the dye gets sucked into the crack.

2. A dye-free option is to clean the swimming pool, and then within a day or two check out the crack and see if dirt or debris to begin building up in the crack.

If you determine the crack is leaking you probably want to put an end to it. You have two options:

1. Calcium Ball: This is a DIY measure. A calcium ball is a mixture of cement and calcium mixed with enough water that you can form it to a ball. You’ll take the calcium ball and either reach under the water or get in the pool and rub it into the crack. This works because calcium makes cement set or “go off” very quickly. This often works and works well, but it’s likely you’ll eventually have another crack. It’s worth a try but not necessarily a long term solution. (This option is if you have a traditional white plaster pool)

2. The best way to fix a crack is to drain a pool, exposing the crack, and hire a professional (like us) who will take a diamond blade saw and cut the crack open two inches wide and two inches deep the length of the crack. We will then fill the bottom of the crack with an industrial grade caulking product and patch in the plaster 1-2 days later, after the caulking has cured. Doing that is a much more permanent way to fix the crack, although there are no guarantees because pools may still be settling.

There you have it! If you’re having problems with cracks in your pool, give us a call at 801-208-9527 to fix your Utah pool.